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I fell down the rabbit hole, crawling through hell on Dante’s back, carried by him as he was by Virgil. I’ve been singing with the chorus of dear Oedipus’ fate and marveling at Ovid’s tree swaying in birth as its bark split open to give the world Adonis. I am battling seas with Homer and finding Utopia with More, to come.
To be a writer, I must read. Columbia University gave me my start, but as my life keeps moving forward, I realize there is no return to who I once had been. So to England, Goldsmiths college I went, by way of these keys, and into books I now surrender. In the spaces in-between, I am beginning to write my own stories, my own book of fateful tales.
I won’t be here much since I’ve gone back to the beginning. I will try and occasionally post something if I can find the time to ever look up, but Red Dirt Lattes will be a sleepier joint for now.
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I love how Italians eat lunch. The middle of the day is not just a stop to refuel, to grab something on the go, to get to the next point, it is literally in the Italian language a “pause.” You must pause, stop completely, rest.
It was the same in Uganda. Day after day I would marvel at the locals around me, no matter what their job: government official, housekeeper, garbage man; when it was lunch time it was lunch time. Everything stopped. Meals were lingered over in restaurants with those who could afford, or laps with packed meals from home. Each bite tasted and savored and always, ALWAYS followed with tea. Here in Rome it’s coffee, but the lingering is the same. I’ve watched many foreigners become impatient at the end of the meal because the check was not dropped off at the table. In Rome, as well as in Uganda, the meal is not done when the food has been finished, even the tea or coffee consumed, for there is always more pause. To drop a check in either of these places so quickly after a meal is culturally rude. You would never rush someone like that.
I think of back home where even in line at a check-out counter I felt like I was in a race to the end, what end I do not know, but stumbling with my wallet and trying to get bags together, I could feel the breath of frustration on my neck hurrying me along because the person behind me had to hurry along. Now every day I get to sit for lunch with pieces of Uganda in my heart, Italy holding me up and I say to myself when I start to feel those old feelings of unnecessary motion, “Sabrina, just pause.”
Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged bread, culture, eating in italy, italy, photography, uganda | 9 Comments »
How is it my heart still beats red?
Whispering me back.
Settled into ancient passion, yes.
But, the place my skin crawled with life is haunting me.
Posted in photography | Tagged africa, children, passion, photography, uganda | 3 Comments »
Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged day of rage, indignati, indignation, photography, rome | 6 Comments »
I sure hope it looks like the poster.
http://www.france24.com/en/20111013-indignant-protests-sweep-across-world-0
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So, I’ve started smoking again. You can’t live in Italy and not have the occasional cigarette, unless you choose to never open your mouth. Just today, as I was walking past a friendly face and opened up a hello, the man next to me exhaled and with a perfect flick of his head sent the smoke directly into my waiting smile and I actually blew out with him. Even when I try to play soccer on the streets, dogging everyone with a flame, they wait in doorways, huddled together under a cloud of doom that I must part and become part.
I must share though that the relief it has offered me, as a parent, has been enormous. I will never have to wonder when and if my daughter will have a first cigarette. That happened at 3.
And coffee. Oh, coffee. I love it. I want to sit in the cup and play in it for while. But it’s so small. No matter how little I sip, no matter how hard I try to not suck, it’s over in 3 tries. It’s why there are no chairs at the bars. Your ass would never hit that seat with liquid still in that cup. So, I order many cups and this is why I no longer sleep.
And the lovers. On every corner. These young Italians with hormones exploding all over the street. Hands and fingers and tongues and looks of longing that if I stare hard enough start to pull me in and I do worry about collisions. Must I be reminded every day that I didn’t get to be a teenager the Italian way? Yeah, that really sucks.
So, I guess the only thing to do is have another glass of wine, and love every minute of it.
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I am in love. Italy is now mine. It took a dark, edgy city to pull me in, and sink me. Naples is deep. It’s dirty. It’s sexy. It’s everything you think of when you think of Pacino, Deniro, men in dark suits whispering in corners. Sure, there is the Corso lined with expensive boutiques and monuments of stunning beauty, all perched upon hills that fall into an endless sea, but like an alley cat I staked the streets I was warned not to go. I leaned into the whispers and studied the faces distorted from not towing the line. I watched eyes watching mine and tried to catch the passion leaking from the sewers. My heart beat faster there. Even back in Rome it all looks new. I think we might be here for a while, caught, trapped. It runs in my blood. My heritage. I have come home.
Posted in photography | Tagged italy, naples, photography | 9 Comments »
I can’t seem to catch my breath; I collapse at night. While never exactly remembering sleeping before, the experience has always been tangible, as if I could reach backwards into the night just past and almost touch the place I had been. Now I fall into darkness and morning rushes towards me with no understanding of the in-between, of where I’ve just come from, so my days feel like an old torn screen on an cabin’s backdoor, eyes open at points with black holes I disappear into when they close.
Coffee. Breakfast. Pack lunch. School clothes. Bookbag. Car. Metro. Walk. Look for apartments. Study. Back to school. Walk. Bus. Walk. Cook dinner. Plan breakfast. Plan lunch. Laundry. Out.
But it’s more than that.
One of the things I have written about is how lonely the life of a traveling ex-pat can be. One of things I did not realize is how comforting loneliness can be. Having moved our daughter to an English International school, I am forced to converse, spinning in every direction with hello’s and hi’s and how are you this morning. I am opened up and dissected and expected to do the same in return. At first it felt wonderful to share in the language I rest in, but that rest quickly turned to exhaustion, and I now wonder if my true language, the one I feel most at home with, is silence, the place I grew up in.
There is a wonderful book, a collection of stories, called Only Child. Writers on the Singular Joys and Solitary Sorrows of Growing up Solo. Alissa Quart, in her story ‘The Hotline’ writes,
“As an only child, I learned early…that basic transformation was impossible–I would always be the single child, watching the shadows the bookshelves made on the ceiling from reflected streetlights, a gloomy lattice of Culture–and that special solitude could not be changed.”
This life fits me. Moving and surrendering into a three, where one is easily found. Outside the door though is becoming another story.
Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged ex-pat, only child, travel | 6 Comments »
Where else in the world can you land that you are greeted into a city by two youths biting each other’s tongues, practically falling onto the conveyor belt with passion, while waiting for your baggage? Two young lovers that couldn’t have known our bags actually would not come, so had they not been there my eyes would have searched endlessly for something to land on, and well, I was already quite tired. I wish I could thank them.
I do hope our bags enjoyed their extended stay in Paris. We made the connection, but apparently they did not. I will have to ask the last one still there, if it ever chooses to leave.
Bumbling through jet-lag, we are roaming the streets for a new home. Our life is a series of moves, boxes packed and unpacked, never quite settling. But Rome just got bigger; I feel myself expanding.
The little one is in a new school with Mussolini’s great-grandson. Apparently, he’s a bit of a bully.
Will I ever get tired of seeing the Coliseum all lit up at night?
Or the fountains that pour out endlessly?
In our new neighborhood, I have found a café with pictures of African warriors hanging from the ceiling. I go there daily now. I get to be in Rome and feel a little bit of Africa at the same time. A good place to have a red dirt latte.
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